MPOViewer reads the MPO files your Fujifilm FinePix 3D camera writes, and shows you both frames the way you want to see them: side-by-side, cross-eye, anaglyph, wiggle, or depth. It also turns a photo of an old stereo card into an MPO.

Something not working, a folder that won't open, or a feature you'd like to see? Email me directly. I read every message myself.

MPOViewer can't find my photos. What folder should I pick?
Point it at any folder that contains .mpo files, on your device or in iCloud Drive. MPOViewer needs one-time access to that folder; if you moved or renamed it, open Settings and pick it again.

Which cameras does this work with?
Any camera or converter that writes standard MPO files, most commonly the Fujifilm FinePix REAL 3D W1 and W3.

Does MPOViewer upload my photos anywhere?
No. Nothing leaves your device. The only thing MPOViewer ever fetches is a larger colour model for stereo cards, when you ask for it in Settings. See the privacy policy for details.

The picture looks a little tighter than the camera's own preview. Why?
MPOViewer corrects each pair before showing it. The two frames are brought into line vertically, since no camera holds its two lenses exactly level, and the pair is then placed against the screen so the nearest thing in the picture sits at the screen plane and the depth stays comfortable to look at. Both corrections slide the frames against each other and trim the strip they no longer share, which leaves the photo a few percent narrower and a little shorter. Turn Comfortable Depth off in Settings to see everything exactly as the camera recorded it, or use the button next to Close in the viewer to show that one photo as the camera shot it.

A stereo card came out upside down, or the prints are cut wrong. What can I do?
The right way up is read from the shape of the prints first (arch-topped prints are up where the corners are rounded) and from the printed title second. A card with square prints and no text is taken as you held it, so turn the card and try again. A coloured mount, salmon or pink, can fool the white balance under a warm lamp; switch White Balance off in Settings, under Stereo Cards, and convert once more. A print that stays orange whatever you do was photographed under a lamp so warm that the blue is gone from the photo, and no white balance can bring it back: photograph it again by daylight, or switch on Black and White when you import it. If a card still will not come out, send me the photo.

Depth mode looks off, or Wiggle isn't animating. Is that a bug?
Depth mode is marked experimental: the depth map is estimated from the stereo pair, so results vary by photo. Wiggle needs motion (tilt) or the timer running; check Settings if it looks static. If something still seems wrong, send me the photo and I'll take a look.